Kokain

La Paz is definitely growing on me. It is still overwhelming, but the chaos has become almost comforting. The area where I am is literally one big market - stalls selling handicrafts (mainly Alpaca goods) are everywhere. About one block away are the Witches' Markets - which sell unusual, and slightly disturbing things, like llama foetuses (no joke), talismans and strange potions. What kind of present is a llama foetus? I can imagine it being quite difficult to sneak through customs... Also checked out the Coca Museum today. The Coca plant forms such an essential part of Bolivian life that it's difficult not to take an interest. The museum covered everything: from it's domestication nearly 5000 years ago and it's use in pre-Incan rituals, to the biological effects the alkaloids in the Coca leaves have on the human body, to the politics of the cocaine industry and it's beneficial use as an anaesthetic in modern day medicine. Fascinating stuff. One of my favourite facts involves the Catholic church: when the Spanish invaded Bolivia they claimed that Coca leaves were a diabolical substance, one that interfered with the Christian belief (or something like that), but when the King of Spain realised that it made slaves more tolerant to working longer hours in the gold and silver mines, he quickly removed his doubts and called for access to the drug (obtained by chewing the leaves). Typical. I could list a whole bunch of facts, but that would just be boring. I'm planning to do a bit of shopping tomorrow as well as book myself in for the 'World's Most Dangerous Road' bike ride. It looks insane - more on that soon.