Pizarro's Sword

Sunday, July 23, 2006

Mines, dynamite and other tales from the underground

Just a very quick update (has it been 12 days since my last one?). Just as Cat and me thought we were well on our way to Chile, we got stuck, again. We've spent the last week or so in Potosi, the highest city of its size in the world (4100 metres above sea level), doing an intensive Spanish course. It's been incredibly helpful and I'm finally managed to get my head around the past and future tenses. Always useful for conversations!

At the beginning of the week we visited the famous silver mines in Cerro Rico (rich hill). The tour was mindblowing. The hill has been mined for well over 450 years now, and the working conditions haven't changed a great deal since then. It used to be mined only for silver in the 16th and 17th centuries, and the heavy output of the stuff made Potosi the richest city in South America at that time. Many men in Potosi are doomed to a life in the mines. As a result, life expectancy isn't terribly high. Supposedly there are 12,000 people working in the mines, 2,000 of which are underage. On my tour we bumped into a boy who was just 13 (!). Apparently they will be lucky if they make it past 30. Just imagine what we were doing at that age. I spent 2 and a half hours down in the mines, but I wanted out badly after that. The dust is what killed me. We had to buy presents for the miners including dynamite, coca leaves and fizzy drinks (on fridays, 96% alcohol!). Mental. Our guide saved a stick of dynamite for the group to show us how powerful it is. We were standing at leats 100 metres away, but I could sure as hell fel the impact!.

More on the mines shortly, we're leaving for Uyuni tomorrow to do a 3-day trip of the salt flats.

1 Comments:

  • At 30 July, 2006 21:41, Blogger Disillusioned kid said…

    Hey!

    One of my friends from home has just got back from South America. He too did the trip into the mines, taking presents with him (seems a strange custom to me, but I'm sure they appreciate it).

    They also got to see the effects of dynamite, although they apparently tested it on a doll!

    (Incidentally, my mate also told a story about his bus almost being dynamited by indigenos, but it's probably just as well that didn't happen to you.)

    Glad to hear you're having fun (the tour you describe above, aside). Keep in touch!

     

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